Pesto Genovese Pasta

1. Toast the pine nuts in a dry pan over low heat for 2 to 3 minutes until just golden and fragrant, then let them cool completely so they do not turn the sauce bitter.
2. Pound the garlic and a pinch of salt to a paste in a mortar, add the basil leaves a handful at a time and grind in a circular motion until you have a bright green pulp, then work in the cooled pine nuts.
3. Stir in the grated parmesan and pecorino, then drizzle in the olive oil while mixing to a loose, glossy sauce; if you prefer, blitz everything briefly in a food processor with short pulses to avoid overheating.
4. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a rolling boil and cook the pasta until al dente, usually 1 to 2 minutes less than the package time, reserving a mug of starchy cooking water before draining.
5. Loosen the pesto in a warm bowl with a few spoons of the reserved pasta water, add the drained pasta off the heat and toss thoroughly so every strand is coated without cooking the sauce.
6. To use what you have, swap basil with parsley, mint or rocket and the pine nuts with walnuts, almonds or sunflower seeds, adjusting oil and water until the sauce clings; serve immediately with extra cheese.

You'll use: Pan · Large pot · Saucepan · Food processor